Autumn in Munich

Growing up in Florida, I only knew 2 types of weather: Hot, and slightly less hot. Since moving to southern Germany part-time, I have been forced to reckon with how to live in changing seasons and dress in proper, weather-appropriate clothing. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that I actually love the seasonal cycles! My favorite season of all has been fall.

Munich has a wonderfully long autumn season. It can begin in mid-September and last for as long as 2-3 months. This region also has the added benefit of a higher percentage of sunnier days, the perfect recipe for long, leisurely walks. 

As the temperatures begin to drop, the trees begin their transformation. Living in the south has the added benefit that the days still reach a comfortable warmth, allowing the trees to keep their leaves longer than in the northern parts of Germany. There is something invigorating about the yellow, orange and red leaves dotting the trees along the parks and lakeshores. They pile up along sidewalks and streets in Hallmark-movie fashion, the crunchy heaps inviting scores of scurrying hedgehogs like a cat nuzzling in freshly washed sheets. 

Strolling through Munich’s city center, I revel in the smells of candied nuts and cinnamon. Late November announces the arrival of the first Christmas markets. The warm glows of the stalls draped in seasonal décor invite evenings of laughter and community. 

Autumn is nature’s gentle transition between summer’s endless light and winter’s festive coziness. The days are not as long as they are in the summer but the eternal twilight reflects the warm glow of the tree-tops as the swaying limbs sing a lullaby.

What to pack for Autumn in southern Germany

The weather can be unpredictable between September and December. When visiting, you may find that one day is unusually sunny and warm and the next filled with rain and fog. When I leave my home to explore the city or go for a long walk, I typically pack a small bag of essentials. Here are my suggestions:

• Carry a travel-sized umbrella (I have one that fits in a small purse)
• Dress in layers
  • Short sleeved shirt, thin sweater or jacket, outer shell windbreaker or jacket
• Bring a thin pair of gloves and a small, packable scarf that can double as a blanket or shawl
• Wear comfortable walking shoes that can handle rain

What to do in and around Munich in Autumn

I often build my itinerary around the weather. On warm days, you will find many locals filling the streets and parks, trying to soak up the final rays of sunshine before winter. There are plenty of park benches and biergartens to indulge in a dose of sunbathing. On rainy, foggy or extremely cold days, I opt for indoor activities. Here are my top 5 favorite things to do for each type of weather.

Beautiful weather days:

1. Stroll through the grounds of a palace (my top 3)
   1. The Residence (inner city)
   2. Nymphenburg Palace (outer districts of the city)
   3. Neuschwanstein Castle (approx. 1.5 hours from Munich by car or bus)
2. Enjoy walking around one of the many lakes surrounding Munich’s suburbs
3. Wander through the districts of Munich’s inner city starting at Marienplatz (town hall), admiring the architecture and generally allowing myself to get lost
4. Sitting in a beer garden or in front of a cafe and people watching along a busy street near the city center
5. Meeting with friends for tea/coffee and a walk through the “Englischer Garten”. Mid-afternoon is when the Germans take a break for Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake).

*If you are visiting near the end of September, make sure to visit the fairgrounds of the famous Oktoberfest (Wiesn’), to enjoy the largest beer festival in the world. 

Bad weather days:

1. Visit a Museum, tour a castle, or enjoy one of the famous breweries
2. Curl up with a good book in a cozy cafe
3. Attend a classical concert or live music event.
4. Enjoy a long brunch at one of Munich’s delicious restaurants/cafes
   1. The ‘University’ area has many wonderful options
5. See a movie at Museum Lichtspiel (a movie theater in the inner city that plays movies in their original language – great for someone who isn’t fluent in german like myself)

Everyday Life

Southern Germany is all about work-life balance. Society places an important emphasis on having a well-rounded personal life with many businesses only requiring a 38 hour work week. Bavaria in particular boasts an incredible amount of bank holidays, typically denoted to Catholicism. No matter the weather or seasons you will always find the city full of life, with people leisurely enjoying coffee, beer and all types of cakes and pastries at any time of day. Make sure you snag a giant pretzel while you’re in town!