Traveling in the East Greenland Fjords

Whenever I hear mention of traveling through fjords, images of Norway come to mind. There’s been a full return to the travel market post-COVID. Unfortunately, inflated prices have become the new norm, making a trip like this both expensive and overcrowded. No one enjoys hoards of selfie-takers blocking the views and ruining the vibe, especially at a high price. It has become more challenging than ever to find the sought after weeks a year where popular destinations see a slight decrease in people and prices. 

For this reason, I’ve been on the hunt for destinations that are under the radar. I’ve never been a cruise person, but expedition cruising changed my perspective ever since my 2 week trip to Antarctica. 

When a cruise deal for the eastern Greenland fjords popped up, I had little idea what that might look like. I soon learned that eastern Greenland is home to the longest fjord system of any known place in the world, at a whopping 217 miles/350 km long.

Greenland is more of an “Ice”-land than a “Green”-land thanks to sitting on northern latitudes reaching up into the Arctic Circle. It is an island off the northeast of Canada, and is geopolitically considered a territory of the Kingdom of Denmark. My research turned up whispers of polar bears roaming wild.

My husband and I booked the deal last minute as a wedding anniversary present to ourselves. We only had a few weeks to get our gear in order. Our chosen cruise line was Hurtigruten (branded as HX), a Norwegian-based company. 

Included in our booking were a water-and-wind-proof HX jacket (including a hood) and reusable metal water bottle that we were able to take home. We were provided knee high, water-proof loaner boots to wear for shore landings throughout our time on the ship. All meals plus unlimited non-alcoholic beverages, coffee and tea were included. Shore landings, in which we were shuttled from boat to land each day were also included. Sea-kayaking cost €179/$188 per person, per outing (as of August 2024) and was only possible on days where weather permitted. Tipping the staff was an option at reception.

After booking, our only job was to make sure that we made it to port in Reykjavik, Iceland for departure.

Greenland Day 1: The Crossing 

On August 11, 2024 we boarded our expedition ship, the MS Fram. Our voyage began with a 36-hour crossing of the Denmark strait. The small size of this ship, with a maximum capacity of 250 passengers ensured that we would have more accessibility to the land and a greater ability for intimate discussions with the expedition team. From the moment we stepped aboard, the crew made us feel at home.

First impressions of the Hurtigruten cruise line: This Norwegian company is currently known for being one of the most eco-friendly cruise options on the market. They are also science and environmentally focused. The MS Fram ship provided an onboard library, a laboratory outfitted with microscopes, maps, and fossils and a lecture room. Presentations were conducted by the expedition team—a group made up of biologists and scientists with specialties in a variety of fields. 

Side note: Crossing the Denmark Strait wasn’t as bad as the Drake passage to Antarctica, but it definitely took me some time to find my sea legs. The waves can vary depending on the weather. We were lucky with moderate conditions. My husband was one of the lucky ones who was unaffected by turbulent seas. He moved like a seaman, exploring the ship even as the swells caused him to stumble from side to side. 

Greenland Day 2: Open Sea

A full day at sea gave us plenty of time to get acquainted with our new routine. By midday the waves had smoothed out to the point we could barely feel the ship moving as it sped through the open waters. 

Open sea reminded me of flying through empty skies. Endless shades of blue, violet, fluorescent white and golden yellow swallowed us up. The clanging of the waves against the ship became the rhythm of the day. Marine biologist, Jena, gave the first lecture on whales and we slowly started to meet our fellow passengers.

Halfway through the day we received our first treat! A rare group of male sperm whales surrounded the ship. This was just the start of what became a whale-centric sighting day. Humpback, minke and fin whales graced us with their presence throughout the afternoon. At one point the number of whales was so prevalent that the captain stopped the ship for us to watch the show. Jena bounced from one end of the deck to the other with the scientists, all excitedly shouting out the types of whales and giving us information about them. All the while they kept their binoculars closely trained on the waters for blow sightings.  

Day 3: Arriving in Greenland 

Our first official day in the country started with the sighting of Hurry Inlet from the dining room window. Within the fjord, icebergs from the nearby glacier loomed, casting geometric reflections in the lightly lapping water. After the expedition team carefully inspected a large radius around the landing site for polar bears, we were allowed to disembark. The zodiac boats, deployed from the lower level of the ship, scooted us to shore. We were permitted to walk up a steep hill for panoramic views. 

Greenland was greener than I expected, despite its frigid, summer temperatures. It wasn’t a conventional green of open fields or forests. It was a muted shade of iced over vegetation. Up close, the craggy earth revealed swaths of a sort of moss, patches of what appeared to be grass and small flowers. We liberally explored this strangely quiet landscape, before heading back to shore.

That’s when we were provided the opportunity to participate in a polar plunge. . . I started to doubt the sanity of such an endeavor with limbs already covered in goosebumps. With water and air temperatures just barely above freezing and a wind chill that cut through our clothes we stripped down as fast as we could. 

I ran straight into the sea before I could think about what I was doing. The freezing water took my breath away, but I was committed. I dove head-first beneath the surface. The electric cold sent me catapulting back to shore. I struggled to roll my top layers over my wet skin. Vaguely, I heard the applause of some of the crew and other passengers. Sharing a manic laugh with my husband and friends, we gathered up the rest of our clothes as fast as we could and jumped in a zodiac boat. I couldn’t feel my body, or even the biting wind, for minutes after the plunge as we bounced over the water back to the ship. Needless to say, we took very necessary hot showers upon our return. A follow-up dip in the back deck hot tub eventually warmed me to the core. 

The rest of the afternoon was spent cruising by increasingly large icebergs as we sailed through the fjords. I stood on the front deck for as long as my body could tolerate the cold, soaking in the beauty of the ice in contrast with the sloping rocky mountains that served as guiding borders for our path. 

An afternoon lecture was provided by George, the ornithologist. This was followed by a fish dissection by marine biologist Ingvild in the science lab. There were constant lessons to soak in from the team, and the landscape itself. Afternoon coffee and cake were served in the Explorer lounge—a welcome time to catch up on my journaling. 

Greenland Day 4: The Bear Islands 

We awoke in the vicinity of Bear Island. The morning was spent exploring the northern part of the island. Temperatures were comfortably (for Greenlandic standards) in the 50s: the terrain on shore alternated between rocks and squishy moss. 

The historian, Benjamin, pointed out the remains of a settlement formerly belonging to the Thule people, predecessors to the Inuits. They formerly lived in caves dug into the ground, complete with an antechamber at the entrance to keep the living quarters warm. Animal bones, a musk ox skull, and even some antlers were scattered around the old settlement. The Thule people survived off hunting polar bears, whales, seals and musk oxen. 

The afternoon was spent exploring the southern part of the island. We basked in the surrounding landscape of mountains and glacier filled inlets. Despite the chill that we were becoming accustomed to, we were surprised to be discovered by mosquitoes on our marshy walk. This was the only place where we experienced the mosquitos that we were warned could be prevalent in summer months. 

Day 5: Rypefjord

By this point in the trip we were deep in Greenland’s arctic fjords. We began our day with some epic sea kayaking. Wispy fog danced over the coast line. The glassy glacier waters were still enough to look frozen over. In the distance we could see a massive glacier wedged into one of the arms of the fjord.

Upon return to the ship we ran as fast as we could to change clothes and get the last zodiac boat out onto land. Our landing in this bay was nothing short of extraordinary. Puffs of clouds floated over the mountain tops like a cartoonish dream. Understanding the icebergs to be multiple stories high was almost unfathomable. The surrounding peaks scraped the sky, dwarfing them a hundred times over. 

We carefully picked our way through the shoreline of rocks and marsh, careful not to turn our ankles on the wild beach. Spongey vegetation provided a bouncy playground to explore. We were fascinated by the tiny arctic flowers embedded in splotches of green. It seemed impossible that these little tropical-colored flowers could survive in such harsh climates. 

Deeper on solid land, we climbed a path of rocks for an overview of the surrounding area. The winding turquoise waters seemed to be painted in swirling flourishes around the bases of the brown mountains. Little dots of musk oxen could distantly be seen wandering along the surrounding mountains. The contrast of ice and grazing animals looked as if two oil paintings had been merged into one abstract thought. The unlikeliness of their pairing only made the scene more extraordinary. 

 Just as we were getting ready to return to the ship a musk ox mama and baby revealed themselves in close proximity. Their lumpy brown bodies lumbered side to side as they grazed. The clumsy baby captured our hearts. We watched at a safe and respectful distance with some of the expedition team. I stood grinning ear to ear as I watched them through binoculars.

The afternoon took us deeper into the wild fjord. Icebergs like I had only seen in Antarctica surrounded us on all sides. The captain announced a surprise zodiac cruise to explore these ice sculptures up close. We eagerly climbed into one of the little boats with our cameras to capture some of the most beautiful views thus far. 

Some parts of the ice glowed fluorescent blue at the core and base. Some looked as if they’d been scribbled on with black sharpie, an indication of having scraped the ocean floors or valley walls and picked up sediment before flipping 180 degrees. 

The ride was a cold one, but a memorable one. I was happy to have donned multiple layers. Even at a safe distance from the ice, the air felt a few degrees colder. The occasional cracking from calving ice (when a piece of ice breaks off of a glacier to form an iceberg) blended with the lapping of the water against our boat. These echoing sounds were a simple reminder of our remoteness.

Greenland Day 6: Sydcap and Charcot Havn 

On August 16th, the anxiously hoped for day finally arrived. We stepped out on the front deck just in time to spot a polar bear!!! The polar bear has always been my favorite animal—my greatest travel dream was to see one in the wild. 

It was hanging out exactly where we were meant to make our daily landing. Hunters had recently left behind the remains of a musk ox. The bear picked at the corpse. We watched in awe for an hour as the bear lumbered around. It eventually settled down to rest in the same manner as a very large dog. Its head sniffed up at the air in our direction, clearly aware of our scent. I stared through binoculars with a smile that wouldn’t fade.

Later that day, we watched another lecture given by Jena. Research on polar bears show that they are predicted to go extinct within 30 years due to the rapidly melting polar ice. . . To date, there has never been success in breeding them in captivity for release into the wild. There is no current solution for this decline in numbers without solving global warming. The rapidly melting arctic ice is making it harder for bears to hunt, leading to starvation and forced migrations into southern villages where they are sometimes killed for the safety of citizens. Starting in 2025, new laws are coming into place surrounding polar bears and tourism. 

It was a bittersweet way to end the day, but an important education. 

Greenland Day 7: Ittoqqortoormiit, “The place of big houses”

There is only one settlement about midway up the eastern side of Greenland in the Arctic Circle. It was officially established in 1925. The East Greenlandic people speak their own dialect as well as the official Greenlandic language. North of Ittoqqortormiit is the world’s largest national park and south is the largest fjord system (where we spent most of our trip). 

Tourism is brand new to this region. The season is extremely short due to the sea ice that makes arriving by ship inaccessible for most of the year. The people were kind and curious. Some of the children smiled and waved excitedly to see us arrive. Others shyly peeked out from windows and doorways. We had been warned not to give anything to the children that might condition them to associate gifts with visiting cruise ships. Instead, we were told that anything we would like to donate or gift could be given to a town representative to share out as deemed acceptable. 

We were given a quick tour of the town limits, something that lasted no more than 30 minutes. Adorable puppies wagged their tails hard enough that they could barely stay on their feet as they wedged themselves into the crowd for petting. It was rumored that kids and teenagers jump off the roofs in the winter into giant piles of snow for amusement. Afterwards we were given free reign to explore on our own, with the warning to stay within certain streets for protection against any curious bears. Polar bear protocol requires that all citizens of the town are required to leave their doors unlocked. If a bear is at any time sighted, people run into the nearest house, no questions asked. 

A polar bear had been shot just that week after wandering too close to the playground. Its fur lined the entire length of one home’s balcony, a somber warning. It was hard to imagine seeing such a massive animal like that up close. 

Ittoqqortoormiit seemed tough, dangerous, isolated and very cold. The wind was blowing so strongly that I had to lean into it to move forward. I had no chance of keeping my hood on without holding it in place. We were cautioned to never step out of town without a guide or a gun and to never approach the tied up sled dogs, who are partly wild. 

The big event of the day was the inaugural Hurtigruten vs. Ittoqqortoormiit soccer game. My husband participated on the Hurtigruten team and even scored one goal! We were no match for the local teens however. We lost 3-1, but everyone remained in good spirits. The joy on the faces of the locals was unbeatable.

Ittoqqortoormiit is as remote as it gets. They only receive one big cargo delivery of food and goods per year. We happened to be in town just following the recent shipment. This meant that there were quite a few people stumbling around drunk, assumingly enjoying the alcohol shipment. 

So why would anyone choose to live in such harsh conditions? Expedition guide, George, explained that the main jobs and associated benefits were all provided by the Danish government, for one. Hunters also have plenty of hunting prospects that make the region enticing. The main reason is probably the most obvious one. Ittoqqortoormiit is simply home for its inhabitants. It is situated in an insanely gorgeous place: icebergs regularly float through the bay, endless open land surrounds the town on all fronts and Greenland’s largest mountain is silhouetted in the vicinity. 

Day 8: Antarctic Havn

Following our visit to town came a day of rest. Due to a distant, but nevertheless present, polar bear sighted by the expedition team, our plan to make a landing in the Antarctic harbor was cancelled. Our ship pulled back out to open sea as we began the ascent towards the northern fjords and national park. Many of the guests were sea sick from the rocking and remained in their rooms. A few lectures were spaced throughout the day and after downing some seasickness medication I made my way to the presentations. I used the free time in between to catch up on my journal, much of which has been the backbone of this article.

Greenland Day 9 (Part 1): Blomsterbugten, “Bay of flowers”

Our morning was spent exploring this beautiful part of the fjords with surprising shocks of pink and red flowers splattered across spongey vegetation. An old, Norwegian trapper hut sat on a hill near shore. We were allowed to visit the inside and found it surprisingly cozy. Afterward, we explored the surrounding hills with the water reflecting the surrounding mountains.

Greenland Day 9 (Part 2): Nordfjord Waltershausen Glacier 

We spent the afternoon cruising around massive icebergs. The icing on the cake was the 10.5 km long Waltershausen glacier at the mouth of the fjord. It was a mesmerizing experience to see up close. Our zodiac boat driver cut the motor so we could listen to the sounds of nature. Aside from the gentle lapping of the waves on the boat, we could hear the popping of calving ice. The immensity of the size of the icebergs that filled the surrounding waters couldn’t be captured in photos. Even with the knowledge that we remained at a safe distance, it was eerie to hear the echoes of cracking ice. At one point, a giant piece of the ice broke off the glacier, crashing into the water multiple stories below. 

Day 10: Ella Ø

Our final day was upon us. I did my best to soak up every detail as we headed to shore for our last landing. On shore were a few simple cabins. The first was an old trapper hut that was no longer in use. The other structures belonged to the Danish government. 

We learned that this sight belonged to the Danish Sirius dog sled patrol. Headquarters has been located in the Northeast Greenland National Park since 1941. The members of this unit are members of the Danish Special Forces. The qualifications to become a member are strict. If selected, training lasts for 8 months. The main job requirements include monitoring and protecting Greenland’s border.

For more information about this unique dog-sled patrol, its history and recruitment process, you can read more here.

Day 11 & 12: The return sailing

We weren’t ready to go home. We’d spent more than 24 hours sailing back through the Denmark strait to Iceland on (thankfully) flat seas. A few hours from the Icelandic coast, we sat around the lounge sipping cocktails with new friends and reminiscing over our favorite moments. That’s when nature gave us one last gift.

Nighttime had already fallen. I was mid-sentence when the door to the lounge flew open. Ornithologist George came crashing through out of breath, screaming, “Volcano! A volcano is erupting!”

We raced to the front deck, our drinks forgotten. A dancing orange glow lit the distant sky. It seemed too perfect to be real. I stood on the deck in my evening dress without even realizing I was cold. The expedition team was euphoric, sharing group hugs and some even crying. It was more than special to witness such beauty on the final night at sea. 

It is an ending that I acknowledge sounds a little too cliche, but one that I promise is true. It is here that I will close out this piece. If Greenland wasn’t on your radar before, I hope it is now. If raw nature, isolation and adventure are what you seek, then this is the trip for you.